Hidden Gems: Three Family Run Retreats in (and near) The Dolomites
A curated selection of 3 bed and breakfasts at the intersection of alpine beauty, thoughtful design, and family-run hospitality in South Tyrol
With the abundance of accommodations in the Dolomites, it can be overwhelming to plan. Our research led us to 3 family run gems, each special in their own right, and each which I hope to return to again one day.
With one week in the Dolomites, we decided to base ourselves in the Western part to focus on some key hikes mentioned below. On a future trip, we’d like to stay in the Eastern Dolomites close to Cortina d’Ampezzo (the location of the 2026 Winter Olympics!), so if you have any recommendations, please comment below!
Hotel Gfell
A traditional mountain hotel reimagined by the next generation
Location: Fiè allo Sciliar / Völs am Schlern
Highlights: Sauna, private balconies, onsite restaurant, design, e-MTB rentals, views
Our trip started with 2 nights at Hotel Gfell in the Völs am Schlern Nature Park. It is in a perfect location for mountain biking and hiking adventures, as well as relaxing and recharging in nature. The perfect blend of tranquility and luxury, we felt so, so welcomed and really appreciated the local knowledge that the Mair family shared with us to make the most of this region.
The elegant rooms all have balconies with spectacular panoramic views, hiking trails are accessible right out front of the hotel, there are e-mountain bikes available to rent, the sauna and spa are lovely, and the food is divine - both at breakfast and Ristorante Schönblick. My husband I both agreed that the eggs (fried for him, scrambled for me) were some of the most flavorful that we’ve ever had and we loved the DIY fresh juice station for a healthy start to the day. The panoramic terraces off of both the breakfast area and restaurant made for an even more pleasant meal.
Nearby Adventures
Very unfortunately, we only had one full day to take advantage of while staying at Hotel Gfell. Next time, we want to stay for a couple of more days to more thoroughly explore the area and enjoy the amenities, however we made the most of our one day.
Hotel Gfell has e-mountain bikes available for rent so we decided to try them out. While we had no idea what we were getting ourselves into, we headed out following a path laid out for us by Julien, and this day ended up being a highlight of the trip! Our mountain biking day took us on winding forest roads, a couple of questionably steep trails, through small villages and alpine meadows, past swimming lakes and stunning vistas, and to some mountain huts for food and refreshment breaks. If you’re interested in our route, feel free to comment below or reach out directly and I’d be happy to share with you.
Casa Al Sole
A revived 1930’s Rationalist gem in the center of Ortisei
Location: Ortisei / Urtijëi
Highlights: Natural wine, gourmet breakfast, accessibility to key hikes, design, hospitality
The setting for our next hotel was very different from the first as it was in a town as opposed to the mountains. When we came upon Casa Al Sole in our Dolomites trip planning, we knew it would be a great base for us. Not only is it accessible to many different hikes (including Alpe di Siusi & Seceda) but we loved the story behind this boutique hotel, too. We stayed for 3 nights and, again, could’ve stayed a few days longer and had plenty to do.
The 1930’s Rationalist building, which has been in the owners family for generations, has been meticulously renovated to blend the past and present. While the location, history and design drew us to Casa Al Sole, it was the kindness, hospitality and local knowledge of owners Manuel and Alexandra that made this a place we hope to return to. From the inviting terrace perfect for sipping local wine, to the thoughtfully designed interiors featuring mid-century touches and serene views, every corner invites you to slow down and savor the moment. The absence of TVs is an invitation to fully unplug and just be.
This stay perfectly encapsulated what we look for when traveling. We left feeling both rejuvenated and inspired and highly recommend for a stay in Ortisei!
Nearby Adventures
There are many hikes and activities to do if you base yourself in Ortisei but we did the following:
Alpe di Siusi hike (full day)
Resciesa Ridge & Seceda hike (full day)
St. Jakobs Kirch/Chiesa di San Giacomo walk (~1 hour, can be made longer)
Vallunga walk (~2 hours, can be made longer)
Passo Gardena drive (clear weather is ideal for this)
Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen
An off-the-beaten-path summer retreat with stunning views
Location: Barbiano / Barbian
Highlights: A true escape, multi-course dinner, pool, beautiful grounds, view of the Dolomites
For a special experience in South Tyrol, look no further. This family-run B&B is accessible only on foot or by transfer as the treacherous mountain roads are difficult to navigate. The vision of solitude that this painted in our minds appealed to us as we wanted somewhere that we could unplug and bask in nature.
Though not technically in the Dolomites, Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen is only a 35 minute drive from Ortisei and features a stunning view over the mountains. We quite enjoyed ending our trip here where we woke up each morning looking out over where we’d just spent the previous days exploring. It was interesting to experience both perspectives.
When we arrived, we parked in a mountain lot and then were transferred to the B&B. We didn’t see our car for the next few days and from the second we hopped out of the van and stepped foot on the property, we knew we’d found a gem. The Wodenegg family has created such a magical atmosphere for guests in this 14th century mountain hotel for generations. The B&B has just 26 rooms and is located in a tranquil hamlet near Barbian, right next to the Tre Chiese/Drei Kirchen/Three Churches.
There are awe-inspiring views throughout the property, an outdoor pool, numerous spots to relax outside, and no TVs or telephones in the rooms. Each evening, a bell welcomes guests to a multi-course dinner in the warm, wood-paneled and beautifully decorated dining room.
As I hopped into our van transfer after checking out, I already had an aching longing to return. I couldn’t shake the feeling that I’d be back, next time for longer, eager to savor more of the peaceful solitude of this special place.
Nearby Adventures
As with our previous accomodations, we wish we’d booked for longer. Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen was a true getaway and we would’ve greatly benefitted from a couple of more unplugged days. On our main day there, we again rented e-mountain bikes and set off on a route recommended by our hosts.
The initial part of the ride took us through a forest trail and then on to a mountain road which we followed through alpine meadows and pastures of cows, sheep and horses. We continued on our way to our destination, Rifugio Corno del Renon, which had spectacular 360 degree views over the Alps and Dolomites and great local dishes.
It also goes without saying that the Three Churches, for which the B&B is named after, are worth seeing. The three buildings are nestled very closely together creating for a unique configuration. The origin remains a mystery, adding to the allure! If they aren’t open, a sign mentioned that you can retrieve a key from the nearby Gasthof Messnerhof to go inside.
Our time at these family-run retreats in the Dolomites contributed to a deeper appreciation for this area that is known for its breathtaking beauty and incredible hikes. It was a true immersion into the heart of South Tyrol’s hospitality, nature, and design and we hope to return to delve deeper and cover more ground.
From the modernized charm of Hotel Gfell, to the accessible oasis that is Casa Al Sole, and the secluded tranquility of Gasthof Bad Dreikirchen, each stay offered a unique perspective and opportunity to unplug and relish in our surroundings.
These hidden gems, lovingly maintained by generations of local families, provide not just a place to sleep, but allow for a very well-rounded experience of the region. Whether you're seeking outdoor thrills, the opportunity to enjoy Alpine design, want to try the local cuisine, or simply in need of a peaceful escape, you’ll find it here.
Have you stayed at any exceptional hotels in the Dolomites that you’d recommend? Please do share below!
Im literally lacing up my hiking shoes, ready to get back on the trails, after reading this!